Casa Azul Hotel – Mérida

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I was in the Yucatán city of Mérida last year. I stayed at a perfectly nice hotel downtown, but now I really wish I had known about Casa Azul.

Mérida was a fabulously rich colonial city in an area where a great deal of wealth was generated by growing sisal, the material that for many years was used in the manufacture of rope. There is a particular boulevard of stunning mansions, many now converted to museums and public buildings, that would rival any city in the world, and it appears that Casa Azul is located in this neighborhood.

Yucatán is the site of a large concentration of remarkable Mayan ruins. I wasn’t on that kind of a trip, but I did take a day to see Uxmal. The ruins were stunning, the drive was easy and pleasant, and I finally was able to understand how entire cities can be swallowed by the jungle.

I’m certain my experience would have been much enhanced if I had stayed at a luxurious historical place like Casa Azul.

Here’s the website: http://www.hotelesboutique.com/en/hotel/casa-azul-monumento-historico

Border Grill – Santa Monica – Ceviche

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I first tried ceviche in Venezuela when I was 18 years old, and was fascinated with the concept that lime juice could cook the outside of the fish. Since then I’ve eaten it in many places, including Peru, where it is virtually the national dish. About 20 years ago, in the face of a widespread cholera epidemic, the Peruvian health minister warned the population against eating ceviche. the following day, he was relieved of his post, and the president was shown on TV eating ceviche… That’s how seriously they take ceviche in Peru.

I had a spectacular ceviche recently at Border Grill in Santa Monica, a long-time favorite restaurant. Fresh and delicious, with a variety of vegetables, and a not-too-citrusy dressing, it was beautifully balanced by avocado slices and a crunchy tostada shell. Just to day, I spotted a recipe for ceviche by Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, celebrity owners and chefs of Border Grill. It sure looks like what I ate in the restaurant.

Enjoy!

Here’s the recipe: http://food52.com/blog/7573-all-about-ceviche

Here’s the website: http://www.bordergrill.com/bg_sm/bg_smwel.htm

Juan’s Restaurante – Baldwin Park, California – Mole Velo de Novia

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Here’s one of the most delicious things I’ve tasted this year. Juan’s Restaurante was serving at the East LA Meets Napa fundraising event for AltaMed, and like the other participating restaurants, brought one signature dish for everyone to try. They chose Mole Velo de Novia.

Mole Velo de Novia (Bridal Veil, probably named for its color) is a lovey white color, and made from a pine nut base. At their restaurant in Baldwin Park, they serve it with sauteed shrimp, but this time, it came on tacos featuring big, juicy pieces of turkey on green tortillas. It’s hard to describe how the sweet, almost almondy flavor could be so rich, and yet fit so well with the savory flavor of the turkey. I went back for 3 servings, and insisted friends try it too… everyone was highly impressed.

Juan’s Restaurante features many Pre-Columbian menu choices, including Mole Velo de Novia. It is located in Baldwin Park, a bit far from Santa Monica, where I’m living, but I know I’ll be going there soon to try more of chef Juan Mondragon’s creations.

Here’s the website: http://www.juansrestaurante.net/

Imanol Caneyada – Tardarás un rato en morir

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My rating: 4 stars

Chantal Akerman, the Belgian film director, was having trouble raising funds for a musical that took place in a shopping mall. She gathered together the cast, and made a demo film, sort of a sketch of what the finished product would be, in which the players sang the songs and read the dialog with no locations or production values whatsoever. This sketch was well received by film festivals, won prizes, and resulted in funding of the originally conceived picture. The more conventional film went unnoticed, despite its bigger budget and more elaborate production values and technical effects.

I tell the story because I feel that Imanol Caneyada has done something similar in his “novela negra” Tardarás un rato en morir.

At first, I was disconcerted by the wide range of topics, locations and characters he covers in this short novel. The first person narrative of the aide to a disgraced former Mexican state governor hiding out in Montreal takes only slight precedence over the story of a Montreal police detective trying to solve a series of bizarre murders. We get the back stories of not only the Mexican main characters, but also the Montreal policeman, a surgeon and his staff, a hotel employee and a most-wanted drug cartel chief. After a while, though, I realized just how ambitiously large the book was, and came to admire how concisely the author managed to show how the search for a Canadian serial killer can put the Mexican drug wars in context.

The theme I came away with is that nothing is really as it appears on the surface – personal relations, physical appearances, headline news, crime, national identity, political power and financial success included. The peaceful blanket of the constant snow in Montreal provides an apt metaphor.

An interesting book that could have frustrated me with its refusal to dig deeply into any of its characters or their stories, but that covered such a wide range that I came away satisfied.

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En esta impactante novela negra, Imanol Caneyada retrata con crudeza un mundo en el que imperan el poder del narcotráfico, las mentiras, el crimen, la corrupción, los asesinatos y la violencia.

A través de una trama envolvente y personajes delineados con exactitud, Tardarás un rato en morir nos cuenta la historia de un ex gobernador mexicano y su fiel ayudante, quienes deben partir en secreto hacia Canadá. Su exilio es la única manera de rehuir el callejón sin salida en el que se encuentran: terminar en la cárcel o ser alcanzados por uno de los más temidos capos de la droga, que busca vengarse de ellos.

Por otro lado, la ciudad en la que se esconden tiene sus propias historias perturbadoras. La nieve que cubre esas calles, supuestamente idílicas, se cubre de sangre, pues empiezan a desaparecer mujeres, a las que encuentran asesinadas y destazadas con métodos brutales.

Con un ritmo cada vez más intenso, la narración del ex gobernador relacionado con la mafia se entrelaza con la del asesino serial que siembra la desazón y el terror. El resultado es un thriller con una intriga bien lograda y una visión ácida de la realidad, que enganchará a los lectores.

Diego Rivera Murals in Detroit

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There are 12 Diego Rivera murals in the Detroit Institute of Art. They were commissioned by Edsel Ford in 1932, when he was president of the city’s Arts Commission. There is concern that Detroit’s recent bankruptcy will reduce funding for maintenace of these important works.

Here’s the link to the Aristegui Noticias article: http://aristeguinoticias.com/2507/kiosko/n-peligro-obras-de/

Mango with Chamoy

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So, how do you get 20 Mexicans at an outdoor market to stop and stare at you with expectant smiles on their faces? Order your sliced mango with chamoy.

I’m certain I once had an ice cream in Mexico City with chamoy, and it was sweet and tasty. But the one I had at the Olympic Mercado in Los Angeles came as a big surprise. It turns out to be plums or apricots pickled in salt and vinegar that Mexicans use to enhance the flavor of mangoes and other fruits. In this case, it was served very warm, and heavily laced with dried chile.

With so many amused faces watching me, I decided to take a big sip of the chamoy through the straw that came with it. Unwilling to admit my shock and surprise, I smiled and declared it to be “muy interesante.” I guess it was pretty interesting, but I couldn’t eat more than a few bites, and threw it away once I was out of sight.

I suspect this was just a bad introduction, so I’ll be keeping an eye out for another opportunity to try this popular delicacy.