Category Archives: Food!

Breakfast in Hermosillo – Gallo Pinto

Posted on by
Reply

103

102

105

After years of doing it the American way, I finally went for a real Mexican breakfast. My usual favorite place for breakfast in Mexico is VIPS, sort of a Denny’s equivalent, but there wasn’t a VIPS anywhere near where I was staying. So I went to the Mercado Municipal, where everyone else seemed to be at that time of day.

All the food stands were trying to lure me with their delicious cabeza (head), but I wasn’t ready for that. Instead, I went for the Gallo Pinto, a northwest Mexico specialty that they assured me was a highly traditional breakfast.

Gallo Pinto turned out to be a rich soup with big chunks of beef, hominy and lots of pinto beans. Sprinkled with cilantro, chopped onion and chile flakes, it was truly satisfying, and didn’t leave me sluggish, as I feared, in the brutal summer heat.

Maybe I’ll eventually break my Raisin Bran and yogurt habit.

Cabeza, Cabeza, Cabeza

Posted on by
Reply

025
095
097

I just started this trip on Thursday, taking buses from Los Angeles to Tijuana, and from there to Hermosillo, and I’ve had a surprising number of invitations to eat the heads (cabezas) of various animals. The picture of the steaming skull is from my favorite taquería in Tijuana, Tacos El Gordo. The others are from the Mercado Municipal in Hermosillo. Each time I passed a food stand, they tried to lure me in for breakfast with their delicious cabeza… So far, I’ve managed to resist the temptation.

Azuñia Platinum Blanco Tequila – Casablanca Restaurant – Venice, CA

Posted on by
1

IMG_9503-001

At my friend Robert’s suggestion, I went for the first time to Casablanca, a long-time tradition on Lincoln Boulevard in Venice.

Shortly after arriving, we were offered “the best margarita you’ve ever had.” I begged off, but Robert took up the challenge, and reviewed the range of super-premium tequilas that were on offer. He went with the Azuñia Platinum Blanco.

Azuñia tequilas are made from 100% Weber Blue Agave that comes from the Zuñiga family farms in the Tequila growing region of Jalisco, Mexico. The plants are cooked for 36 hours in clay ovens before being pressed, fermented and twice distilled. Here’s a great website that describes the process, with photos and all. http://www.azuniatequila.com/process/

And yes, it was the best margarita Robert has ever had.

Here’s Casablanca’s website: http://casablancarestaurant.net/

Casa Oaxaca – Culver City – Barbacoa de Chivo

Posted on by
Reply

IMG_9519-001

IMG_9515-001

There’s a serious new Mexican restaurant on the westside – Casa Oaxaca, the wonderful Santa Ana restaurant, has just opened a new location on Venice Boulevard in Culver City. It’s so new that the Grand Opening is later this week – on Friday, August 9.

I met Rogelio and his crew, and tasted their delicious food at the recent East LA Meets Napa fundraiser event, so I’ve been looking forward to this new opening ever since.

The menu is unusually interesting, filled with specialties from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. The number of fish and shrimp dishes reflects the long coastline of Oaxaca, and of course, some of the most famous moles are represented. I felt I should choose one of those, but I was just in the mood for barbacoa de chivo, and ordered that. It’s a favorite dish I’ve had in many places, and it usually tastes pretty much the same… delicious but the same. Rogelio’s version, to my surprise, was different, with a rich red broth, boldly spiced, but it’s the spicing that sets it apart from the others. Beautifully presented with black beans, a pyramid of rice, lime wedges and chopped onion and cilantro, I couldn’t have been happier. Even the hand-made tortillas were different, lighter and flakier than usual, reminding me of another Oaxaca specialty, tlayudas (which are also on the menu).

I’m really happy to have such a serious restaurant on the westside, and I know I’ll be stopping by regularly.

Here’s the address: 9609 Venice Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90232

Here’s the website: http://casaoaxacarestaurant.com/

Border Grill – Santa Monica – Ceviche

Posted on by
1

IMG_8076-001

9394413493_f67faa3dc2_z

I first tried ceviche in Venezuela when I was 18 years old, and was fascinated with the concept that lime juice could cook the outside of the fish. Since then I’ve eaten it in many places, including Peru, where it is virtually the national dish. About 20 years ago, in the face of a widespread cholera epidemic, the Peruvian health minister warned the population against eating ceviche. the following day, he was relieved of his post, and the president was shown on TV eating ceviche… That’s how seriously they take ceviche in Peru.

I had a spectacular ceviche recently at Border Grill in Santa Monica, a long-time favorite restaurant. Fresh and delicious, with a variety of vegetables, and a not-too-citrusy dressing, it was beautifully balanced by avocado slices and a crunchy tostada shell. Just to day, I spotted a recipe for ceviche by Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, celebrity owners and chefs of Border Grill. It sure looks like what I ate in the restaurant.

Enjoy!

Here’s the recipe: http://food52.com/blog/7573-all-about-ceviche

Here’s the website: http://www.bordergrill.com/bg_sm/bg_smwel.htm

Juan’s Restaurante – Baldwin Park, California – Mole Velo de Novia

Posted on by
Reply

IMG_8806-001

Here’s one of the most delicious things I’ve tasted this year. Juan’s Restaurante was serving at the East LA Meets Napa fundraising event for AltaMed, and like the other participating restaurants, brought one signature dish for everyone to try. They chose Mole Velo de Novia.

Mole Velo de Novia (Bridal Veil, probably named for its color) is a lovey white color, and made from a pine nut base. At their restaurant in Baldwin Park, they serve it with sauteed shrimp, but this time, it came on tacos featuring big, juicy pieces of turkey on green tortillas. It’s hard to describe how the sweet, almost almondy flavor could be so rich, and yet fit so well with the savory flavor of the turkey. I went back for 3 servings, and insisted friends try it too… everyone was highly impressed.

Juan’s Restaurante features many Pre-Columbian menu choices, including Mole Velo de Novia. It is located in Baldwin Park, a bit far from Santa Monica, where I’m living, but I know I’ll be going there soon to try more of chef Juan Mondragon’s creations.

Here’s the website: http://www.juansrestaurante.net/

Mango with Chamoy

Posted on by
Reply

IMG_8185-001

So, how do you get 20 Mexicans at an outdoor market to stop and stare at you with expectant smiles on their faces? Order your sliced mango with chamoy.

I’m certain I once had an ice cream in Mexico City with chamoy, and it was sweet and tasty. But the one I had at the Olympic Mercado in Los Angeles came as a big surprise. It turns out to be plums or apricots pickled in salt and vinegar that Mexicans use to enhance the flavor of mangoes and other fruits. In this case, it was served very warm, and heavily laced with dried chile.

With so many amused faces watching me, I decided to take a big sip of the chamoy through the straw that came with it. Unwilling to admit my shock and surprise, I smiled and declared it to be “muy interesante.” I guess it was pretty interesting, but I couldn’t eat more than a few bites, and threw it away once I was out of sight.

I suspect this was just a bad introduction, so I’ll be keeping an eye out for another opportunity to try this popular delicacy.

El Borrego de Oro – Tacos de Barbacoa

Posted on by
Reply

IMG_9095-001

There are a lot of great meat experiences in Los Angeles, ranging from Argentinian steaks to Shanghai style pork shanks, but I’ve just added a new favorite to my list.

El Borrego de Oro serves lamb barbacoa style, in which the whole lamb is steamed in an underground oven, covered with maguey cactus leaves. The result is a remarkably flavorful meat so soft that it falls off the bone. This is the style that has been perfected in the Mexican state of Hidalgo over many generations. They sell barbacoa by the pound, and will even cook an entire lamb for you by special order, but I went for the tacos… despite my good intentions, I can only eat so much.

The meat is cooked essentially without spices, to preserve the rich meaty flavor, so I was slightly surprised to receive two tortillas, each with a generously large, but unadorned piece of meat on top. Accompanied by cilantro, chopped onion and lime wedges, all I needed was a liberal splash of smoky, spicy chile sauce for a perfect experience.

With all 3 locations in East LA, I had to drive for this experience… I’m looking forward to doing it often in the future.

Here’s the website: http://borregodeoro.com/

Carnitas Uruapan – Santa Ana – Conchitas

Posted on by
Reply

IMG_8842-001

IMG_8844-001

Carnitas Uruapan is famous for its meats, and especially its carnitas. That’s why I was surprised when I visited their location at the East LA Meets Napa event last week. Every participating restaurant chose a signature dish to serve, and Carnitas Uruapan chose… baked goods.

I had been eating enthusiastically all evening, so I just asked to try the coconut cookie, and I couldn’t resist the heart-shaped peanut butter cookie. Both were delicious, with the natural coconut and rich peanut butter flavors highlighted by just enough sweetness, and perfectly executed textures.

My little surprise, though, was the Conchita that had been slipped into my bag. No great expert on Mexican baked goods, I tend to think of a concha as being a bit bigger, kind of dry, and served at breakfast in the hotels I visit. But this was something very different – absolutely the best version I have ever eaten. It was light and sweet, more like a beignet, even dusted with sugar in the same way.

Thank you to Carnitas Uruapan for this nice experience.

Here’s the website: http://www.carnitasuruapan.com