Ojos de Lagarto – Bernardo Fernández BEF

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My rating: 4 stars

Layer upon layer of imagination went into constructing this delightful story. The time frame covers a huge swath between the wild west and some time before WWII. The geography ranges from the African Congo to Shanghai, and from Northern California to Mexicali. We follow the strange history of an ancient, mysterious Chinese man who journeys widely, eventually becoming the criminal leader of a labrynthine city of tunnels under the unlikely border city of Mexicali. Throughout his travels, he has carried with him the only heirlooms of his now defunct wealthy family, and now is the critical climax of his years of care and attention. We meet a wide range of characters, including P.T. Barnum, Mexican president Abelardo Rodríguez, a German spy, a hunter of exotic animals, and a veterinarian and his son, living by their wits as they escape the Mexican revolution. A fun, historic monster story that even solves the mystery of Lake Champlain. Definite recommendation.

Bajo el laberinto subterráneo de La Chinesca en Mexicali se guarda un secreto extraordinario. 1923. Una ciudad serpentea bajo el suelo de Mexicali. En ella, Pi Ying, un anciano chino traficante de opio y alcohol, ha protegido durante años un misterio que lo acompaña desde su huida de Shang Hai, cuando era apenas un niño. El secreto que se resguarda en la población fronteriza convoca a una serie de personajes peculiares: un ambicioso cazador de animales exóticos obsesionado con el rastro de una bestia portentosa, un veterinario viudo y su hijo que van por los caminos vendiendo tónicos milagrosos mientras huyen de la Revolución y sus recuerdos, y un espía del káiser Guillermo II que fracasa en su intento por contactar a Pancho Villa para proponerle una alianza militar con Alemania. Cazadores de elefantes sudaneses y de fauna insólita, recolectores de fósiles en el viejo oeste y personajes como el empresario circense P.T. Barnum, el traficante de especies salvajes Carl Hagenbeck y el presidente Abelardo L. Rodríguez desfilan por las páginas de esta historia que comienza a las orillas del lago Bangweulu, en el Congo, y concluye catastróficamente al norte de México.

Casa de la Condesa – Roma, Mexico City

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A wonderfully unique hotel, right in my favorite neighborhood of Mexico City. Set on a street with buildings that go back perhaps to the 1920s, every room in this hotel is different, with a nod to historic styles. The rooms are comfortable, and staff is pleasant. The neighborhood is peaceful, with large trees, walking paths and fountains. People walk their dogs here after 11:00 PM. There are plenty of nice restaurants nearby, and it’s just a short walk to the famous Zona Rosa. Rates are surprisingly low.

Here’s the website: http://www.casadelacondesahotel.com/Hotel_Casa_de_la_Condesa_Home.html

Chicken Enchiladas – Cincola, Westchester, Los Angeles

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I tease my friend Robert because he will only ever order chicken enchiladas in a Mexican restaurant. Some day I’ll fool him by taking him to a place that doesn’t serve enchiladas. Meanwhile, the enchiladas he ordered at Cincola ( or is it Cinco L.A.? ) were absolutely great! Nice moist pieces of chicken rolled in firm tortillas, and topped with a delicious green sauce, rich and complex, with an interesting slightly sour edge. An attractive minimalist bar with a suitably loud young crowd, this isn’t a place I would have expected to find a serious Mexican kitchen. I’ll tell you about the chicken in black mole later.

Here’s the website: http://cincola.com/

Shrimp Tostada – La Playita. Venice, Los Angeles

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It’s just a little stand on Lincoln Boulevard just north of the Whole Foods store, but I have become a regular customer for their fresh, simple seafood dishes. The shrimp tostada couldn’t have bee fresher or simpler – steamed shrimp, cilantro and avocado slices on a toasted tortilla. A spritz of lime juice and a dash of Tapatío, and I was smiling all afternoon.

Cemita – Food Truck on Whittier Blvd. East Los Angeles

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I walk right past so many food trucks, so I don’t know what instinct told me to stop and try this one. Cemitas are a version of Mexican tortas that come from the Puebla region, south of Mexico City. This one was made by somebody who really understands food… A beautifully fresh roll with chicken milanesa, string cheese, slices of avocado and sun-dried tomato.